Shopping in Charminar

If you thought that shopping in Charminar was all about buying bangles at Lad Bazaar, here’s proof that it is not! The area surrounding the Charminar monument once patronised several traders and merchants from across the world. As Hyderabad expanded, these merchants and their businesses moved to other parts of Hyderabad. Nevertheless, the market area of Charminar still yields some jewels for the interested shopper.
Pearl Jewelry
I spotted exquisitely strung Hyderabadi pearls in the shops thronging the area around the Charminar. In interesting combinations of pearls with semi-precious stones like onyx and garnets, they come in qualities, designs and price ranges to suit every pocket. The shopkeepers are well-informed and friendly. Prices for pearl jewellery could start around Rs. 500 for a simple circlet of pearls and go to anything above.

Shoes
While the line of shoe shops along the pavement right in front of the Charminar are known for their cheap prices and trendy designs, they are often also the place to get hand-embroidered ‘zardozi’ and ‘chumki’ footwear for less. Each shoe is painstakingly made and embroidered by hand and thus, no shoe is alike. Prices start at Rs. 150 for the ‘Bambaiyya’ designs while the ‘zardozi’ embroidered shoes begin at Rs. 350. The ‘chumki’ shoes start at Rs. 250 and you can (and are expected to) bargain. However, do remember that your shiny shoes come with no guarantee.

‘Attar’ or natural fragrances
Visiting a shop in the line of Islamic book sellers and perfumers is usually on the itinerary of most tourists. We are led through an entire bouquet of aromas, from summer fragrances like Rose, Khus and Sandal to winter fragrances like Shamama-tul-Amber, Hina, Darbar, Musk and evergreen fragrances like Jannatul-Firdaus, Pahadi Phool, Safa Rehan, Nafees, Season and Fiza. Fragrances range from the truly divine to the repulsively toxic, just as Nature had ordered them to be. Personally, we found a good many of the truly divine kind and left smelling not just like roses but like a lot of other fragrant things. Prices for fragrances range from around Rs. 50 for 100 ml for a good quality fragrance. You can also find fragrances for Rs. 5 or Rs. 10 and some actually smell rather interesting.

Kites
We turn into a tiny alley and find ourselves at a kite-lover’s paradise by the time we reach the end of it. Kites, in countless hues and shapes are displayed from every nook and cranny of a cluster of tiny shops. There are kites in the shapes of umbrellas, dragons, rockets, bananas, and weird unfathomable shapes apart from the regular rhombus shape. They come in multiple hues and metallic hues too and range in sizes from the tiny to the humongous. There is also a large variety of other kite-flying equipment available. Prices are Rs. 10 upwards.

Dry Fruits
Stocks of dry fruit, from sun-dried apricots and figs to walnuts and cashew nuts catch the eye as we venture into a gully pointed out to us by locals. As we near the tiny shops, we notice that they also sell raisins, sultanas and glazed cherries. While the shops mostly sell by the kilo, they also cater to smaller orders. The almonds are imported from Iran while the Sultanas are imported from Persia. The apricots are shipped all the way from Africa.

Antique Silver Jewelry
A small cluster of old shops sell old silver jewelry. The jewellery is nevertheless beautiful, with intricate work and beautiful stone studs or enamel work. There are also silver boxes, heavy silver key chains, and poojaware - all terribly oxidised and the shopkeeper likes to call them ‘antique’, though it cannot be denied that they are exquisitely crafted and very beautiful. Prices are about Rs. 1,000 for a pair of earrings with detailed work.

Gold Washing/Polishing and Dori work
There are a series of small shops that polish old silver and gold or “wash” it for a small fee. In addition, they also string beads and semi precious stones together to make beautiful jewelry - this is called dori work. All these artisans sit outside jeweler’s shops with little casks of acid and water or tables of beads and thread and carry out their trade. Worth a watch. Commissions differ depending upon work sought.

While you are at the Charminar monument which has been opened for public viewing, you absolutely have to climb all the way to the top to get a view of the city. Lunch at Hotel Madina or Shadab Hotel is also a must before you leave Old City and trudge back to the humdrum of busy city life.

Tips
Parking is a serious problem. While there is some space for two wheelers, none could be seen for four wheelers.
No toilets available.
Carry your own water or buy mineral water.
People in Old city are friendly, tolerant and very proud of their culture. Many are actually fluent in English but prefer not to use it. Do not misbehave or act patronising with the locals.
Be prepared for mad crowds, traffic chaos, having all rules flouted and no cop on the scene, ever.
Respect the culture of the place. Dress like the locals. Women: Salwar Kameez and Men: Shirts and Trousers. Do not try to drive around the gullies. It's best that you find some place to park and then walk it up.
When in a fix, ask the nearest Hyderabadi for help.